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A heady scent of molasses wafts up as a tub full of dark muscovado sugar hits the Hobart’s beaters, followed by spices (I detect nutmeg and clove), flour and breadcrumbs. “We mix it well now,” explains Smith, who used to work as a chef for Claridge’s and the Savoy, “or the sugar stays in clumps that liquefy when the pudding is cooked.”